https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine daily 0.75 2025-09-29 https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/presentation monthly 0.5 2025-09-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/755f9d8c-b6e6-4f1f-ae57-b1719de39308/Slide1.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/98928d76-ab48-4051-a45a-fb584dd4ae08/Slide2.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1d1b52e2-e0a5-4947-8e8f-fee2e68a65c3/Slide3.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1797a512-d521-40a6-8a79-fffd0e52c0b4/Slide4.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/09848c4c-54e6-48d1-ba8c-bb131460376b/Slide5.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e9561b23-cdb1-47da-a69f-fd23f2fa5783/Slide6.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/919fb8c3-4333-464e-aa87-ba7b907c90b2/Slide7.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1ef78748-c9f2-4ebb-899b-25e499e70b31/Slide8.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ef9f4c31-989b-4fa2-9564-a3c031be729f/Slide9.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0959e13e-430b-42ff-a0f0-dc7eb1dee512/Slide10.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c00b7205-eea2-4e68-a1d3-b901a74a5921/Slide11.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/24379dda-2380-4c15-97a2-b8d77fc61285/Slide12.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/494fc44b-25a6-4f4e-b2ae-6d51280c2bf5/Slide13.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/57b72e8f-dc6c-446f-b915-c325555f60d5/Slide14.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a2253186-e7b7-4dd1-9cea-80fc400dd1ea/Slide15.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/aa00fbdb-ec4d-452b-b8c3-e6a3bad7c612/Slide16.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d2d46413-e461-429e-b508-9e25388129bd/Slide17.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out To donate, google “Medical Lifelines Ukraine”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c7134fa3-f7f6-4501-a407-7e8acec91b00/Slide18.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/56786717-fc50-42cb-b4df-b3648e681da7/Slide16.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6d7527f1-e2d2-486e-af88-0c9748bf255b/Slide20.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/db17dca4-e667-46eb-ba53-e00de7253c77/Slide21.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/82ea9c22-ae40-43b4-b418-417ec335cceb/Slide22.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/bd0b657b-e3f8-44f1-bf01-35fe6d13c4f0/Slide23.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8b79d4b8-1766-4054-8328-1a31e53e1018/Slide24.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/816b3b9a-1dc8-420d-973b-ab8dfc8d9dad/Slide25.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d245d3f8-8c07-4821-96e2-04c174bdabd6/Slide26.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/84985ae3-6ae2-474e-8f4e-56580a631514/Slide27.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/71dc6889-fb68-48f9-824f-4e6f1da72bf9/Slide28.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out To donate to Ants, go to https://www.murashky.com/. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/373c83a1-1b1b-4500-9493-c621b87441e4/Slide29.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f8fc08af-2ae2-42b1-ab6f-f318af217dc9/Slide30.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6c46b0db-bcdf-49fe-ac0a-40eb120a001d/Slide31.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d07ea8a0-3806-492f-b562-cc95228c5ead/Slide32.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6ad97a1d-0940-4213-901b-7ee3c94cc718/Slide33.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/77bed218-9673-4516-bbc5-452f82b8ed7e/Slide34.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a802eace-21ad-45b6-abb9-36c631f238a2/Slide35.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2781b2eb-6976-47de-8ec6-62b957782a99/Slide36.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0256ed81-eba8-40d4-b462-b492dd9804e1/Slide37.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/08caccef-e910-4787-8c90-d15e53063324/Slide41.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/427b01ef-b4e2-4b29-9769-fcffe3c6505e/Slide42.JPG Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/260b8eb2-979f-4bd5-9906-125f1929d5a1/Slide43.jpg Ukraine at War - Ukraine at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/overview monthly 0.5 2025-09-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0b160181-2c09-4858-882d-5da13e20fce2/DSC01641.jpg Ukraine at War - My Ukraine blog - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/history monthly 0.5 2025-09-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/24e5d0ca-6538-4ab8-8da8-6851933cc283/Ukraine_3.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8a33f30d-ac9f-4a51-b38b-d535654d6ad6/Kyivan+Rus+1100.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #1 above: Kyivan Rus at its height in the 11th Century AD, Kyiv near the southern border. (Source: World History Encyclopedia) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/cf9ff812-c230-43d1-9247-a0ae3c012664/Poland+1605-1645.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #2 above: The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth at its height, including the Ukrainian heartland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/13ebfb98-6955-4e9e-9fe3-94460180e504/Ukraine+1667.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map#3 above: Cossack Ukraine divided between Russia and Poland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e51f5e8f-fe27-4851-9b63-de9fac37db30/Europe+1700%E2%80%941714.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #4 above: Central-Eastern Europe in 1700 (Odesa didn’t exist until 1794, but it is included here for comparison / continuity purposes vis-a-vis the other maps) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f983c3bb-cbcc-445e-818d-d4a76744c2df/Ukraine+1914+vs+today+cropped.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #5 above: The three empires of Central-Eastern Europe from 1795-1914, with modern national borders superimposed in the solid black outlines https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6c0b5678-5992-45e8-90dd-68d36c7ab38d/UKR+1918+without+masthead.JPG Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #6 above: Ukraine from 1917-1922 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d8fb3eae-29d5-4866-b18b-6127b6cce7ca/DSC02996.JPG Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Picture of starving Ukrainians queueing to exchange heirlooms for bread at a Torgsin in Kharkiv. From the Holodomor Museum in Kyiv https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/decc7cca-e99b-44e2-8f0f-cfd04284ebd6/DSC02998.JPG Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Starvation victims lying in the streets of Kharkiv during the Holodomor. Exhibit from the Holodomor Museum in Kyiv. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1ef245b6-9d74-4b48-ae14-31c179f9357b/DSC02992.JPG Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out This 1,000+ page register lists the starvation victims in just ONE of Ukraine’s 24 provinces. At the Holodomor Museum in Kyiv https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/115a1d1d-26a0-453f-99d8-6cff7b0d6385/Ethnic+makeup.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map#7 above: Ethnic Russians as a percentage of the population by region. (Do NOT confuse ethnic Russians with Russian-speaking ethnic Ukrainians!) The Donbas (Donetsk Basin, a heavily industrialised area rich in natural resources) has a higher ethnic Russian percentage than does the Donetsk region as a whole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c2494323-165a-4634-8452-0c1511e842d9/Maidan.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Maidan Nezalezhnosti (“Independence Square”) during the Euromaidan Revolution of Dignity in 2013-14 (photo by Sergei Chuzavkov, AP) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/15c1b262-6d3f-4084-8654-2354211f84f0/Attitudes+to+joining+NATO.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Evolution of Ukrainian attitudes to joining NATO — look how opinions changed in 2014 and 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/eaa197ec-bd94-497b-8172-9fbabc5275b0/Putin%27s+2014+invasion+2.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #8 above: Putin’s 2014 invasion of Ukraine’s most heavily Russified territories — Crimea, and the area around the Donetsk Basin (Donbas). Territory taken is in pink. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e8e0d3f7-93eb-4cc2-81d6-1a3ec2f29672/Putin%27s+2022+invasion.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #9 above: Putin’s 2022 invasion of the Ukrainian heartland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1237c2d7-7c98-4e45-84da-a100eab2c207/Current+frontline+2025.jpg Ukraine at War - A brief history of Ukraine - Make it stand out Map #10 above: The current frontline https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/lviv monthly 0.5 2025-08-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/42ef58c5-6ed9-4e4e-bce5-f6dbb26bd35f/02.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out View from the clock tower on the main square — very Central European, as you can see. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c385c711-1463-4e4e-8868-6fbb3a303e49/01.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out View on the main square https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/bb85d26c-da8e-410a-b63d-cac13c27f280/06.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Taras Shevchenko, Ukraine’s national poet. He lived his entire life in Russian-controlled areas, and was setnenced to a Siberian gulag for writing pro-Ukraine verses in colloquial Ukrainian. He died young, but his works live on. Behind the statue is the city’s main cathedral which is Greek Catholic, a.k.a. Uniate. They practice Eastern Rites, but they recognise the Pope in Rome so they are Catholic. So the religion is a mix of Polish and Russian, just as the language is. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/b0fdbea8-0367-476e-a79f-8ffe1e208e55/03.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out One of the near-daily funeral processions passing through the main square. It’s very rare for a missile or drone to get through the air defences this far west, but four things constantly remind you a war is on: (1) the funerals, (2) the many disabled veterans, (3) the ubiquitous red-and-black flags of the Ukrainian nationalists who fought both the Nazis and the Communists in World War II (they were only active here in the West), and (4) language. As a Russian speaker, I was surprised to hear Russian on the street constantly, especially given that most store staff give you a blank stare if you speak Russian. The Russian speakers on the street are all refugees from the war-ravaged Russian-speaking East of the country. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f7a8408e-69a4-48e2-98fe-7da00bf4baa4/04.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Interior of the Greek Catholic (a.k.a. Uniate) cathedral, currently undergoing renovations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/cc1b4634-afbe-4c86-be5d-76178a02369d/7.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out The Cossack Hostel where I stayed in Lviv fittingly displays a large reproduction of probably the most famous Cossack-themed painting in history – Ilya Repin’s “The Cossacks of the Zaporozhiya Write a Letter to the Turkish Sultan” (late 19th-century). According to legend, after the Cossacks defeated the Ottoman Turks in battle, the Sultan wrote to the Cossacks saying that with his superior numbers he was bound to win eventually, so they should just be sensible and surrender. Their response to the Sultan’s letter is lost to time, but it was probably something along the lines of “Russian Warship Go F*ck Yourself”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/341ffc36-5b9c-45ff-a41c-afb36f5f9b5c/11.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Lviv’s many good cafes and good coffee are a legacy of Austrian rule from 1795-1919. This cafe literally has walls of books. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/26df02c5-4002-42b0-bbef-497802f203df/8.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Another cafe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d2268ee0-632b-4aa1-9d6c-4e7315144f55/12.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out A Ukrainian Cossack who took part in the defence of Vienna against the Turks 400 years ago, and then helped introduce coffee to Europe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d4d0bcd8-0612-4dd2-a9f1-575d96b88b6d/21.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Lviv has several cellar bars and restaurants, of which by far the most famous is Kryivka. During the war, nationalist partisan fighters hid in these catacombs and used them as a base for raids against both the Nazis and the Reds. It has a wide range of memorabilia from that period, as well as a rifle range where you can shoot an airgun at a portrait of Putin. Get there before 6:30 PM or you’ll never get a table, they don’t take reservations. The password to get in is “Slava Ukraini” (“Glory to Ukraine”), and the customary response, “Heroiam Slava” (“to the Heroes Glory”). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/7c8354d0-2cfb-42b7-abd3-6d812874dd92/22.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out In Kryivka’s gift shop. Former British Prime Minister Boris Johnson (a steadfast ally of Ukraine, when he wasn’t preoccupied conceiving illegitimate children or taking money from special interests) is a popular figure in Ukraine. Somehow milk stout indeed seems like a fitting beer to bear his likeness (wearing a Ukrainian tie, of course!). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/3d792569-46bb-4b87-b51f-ec72fdd3afdc/23.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out In Kryivka’s must-visit souvenir shop. The beer is called “Putin is a dick” (it sounds worse in Ukrainian). The flask is inscribed “Freedom or Death”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/33664d98-f3eb-4788-b278-9a6f7e714f0e/24.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out The doormat says “Wipe your feet!” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/be6038bb-43d4-4163-8fad-c5215a750f36/25.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Me at the entrance of the 5th Cellar, one of Lviv’s many catacomb beer cellar restaurants https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/287e8629-8a40-47b6-8d75-31f9ce62b1f6/26.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out In the 5th Cellar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5bceb497-0b59-402c-bf7f-5654f494cc70/27.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Retrieving Excalibur in the 5th Cellar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2292687b-0f0a-4e20-836e-6536df128377/28.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out At the 5th Cellar with my new friend Anton. He’s a Filipino-American who works in Krakow, and popped across the border for a weekend. We met up as we were both trying to get into Kryivka at around 8 PM, by which time all tables are full https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2b839cec-2c68-46a2-92ab-0a4c7cad10b9/31.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Wedding at the Armenian Orthodox Church in Lviv’s centuries-old Armenian Quarter https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/995b48b7-d7b9-4e24-872c-1183cffebce4/32.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out On the Armenian street. See the mural of a monk eagerly pulling up a barrel of beer? One of Lviv’s many microbreweries is there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/006f50bb-84b4-458d-9f56-7af0721d79f9/33.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Interior of the 14th-century Armenian Church https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/51db4fda-de54-4d3b-adfc-f3002e7e8752/37.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Remains of Lviv’s main synagogue, destroyed by the Nazis in 1942. The gravestones are part of a memorial now. Ukraine was home to over 2 million Jews in 1941, many tracing their ancestry back to 1492 when Spain and Portugal expelled all Jews. Today there are only around 40,000. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/750e9f56-f939-4889-a70d-66b942410e35/40.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out An al fresco restaurant adjacent to the city’s medieval fortifications https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/595440e1-9622-4633-8480-b2d53331ea0b/41.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Medieval fortifications https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/992baf61-1dd4-41db-a877-8ca5250866b2/45.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out The Lychakiv Cemetery has been the city’s most prestigious eternal residence for some time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ba9bbd6c-d834-496a-86df-a12d2b86f721/47.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out Soldiers who died fighting Russia in the initial limited war from 2014-2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/85706283-ce94-4df3-9d10-1f435f7bfadc/46.JPG Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out A new area has been opened for those who have died fighting since Putin’s 2022 invasion. Virtually every grave has both a yellow-and-blue national flag, as well as the red-and-black flag of the Ukrainian nationalists who fought both the Nazis and the Reds during World War II, and continued a guerilla war against the Reds into the 1960s. You won’t see that flag in Kyiv because the nationalists were only active here, in the area that was part of Poland until 1939. The rest of Ukraine had been half-exterminated in Stalin’s Holodomor famine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0fc5cb21-3ae3-460b-ae47-2057253d24e2/50+with+Ihor+on+the+train+to+Kyiv.jpg Ukraine at War - Lviv, cradle of modern Ukrainian language and culture - Make it stand out On the 6-hour train ride from Lviv to Kyiv I had a fascinating chat with Mikhail Kokorich (centre) and Ihor Kramarenko (right) about the last 30 years of politics, the war, and Russian and Ukrainian relations generally. Mikhail’s life story is fascinating. He’s a Russian Jew and Stanford MBA graduate who was astonishingly able to start and run a retail business in Russia in the 2000’s without paying any mafia protection racket (the mining industry was another story). He left Russia after the failure of the Bolotnaya protests against Putin’s dictatorship in 2011, which he had helped to fund. He created a company in Silicon Valley that grew to 500 staff. During Trump’s first term, ICE raided him, handcuffed him and put him in leg irons. But back then a lawyer could still assert your constitutional rights in America, and he was freed (he was in the country legally). He IPO’d his company in 2021 and was declared a threat to US national security as he left, for reasons he doesn’t understand. Many American friends and business associates unfriended him at that point, citing fear of repercussions if they didn’t. As a descendant of Jews forced out of Portugual in 1492, he was entitled to Portuguese (and therefore EU) citizenship, so he now lives in Switzerland but comes to Ukraine regularly on business. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/pecherska-lavra monthly 0.5 2025-07-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/4d9949a7-7efe-4f27-b15c-3a7c3892807c/DSC02050a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8f1373cd-7546-4a49-b1b9-351c643e60d3/DSC02047.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Entrance to the Lavra. The site is about 5 miles south of the Maidan (Independence Square), well within the modern city limits but well outside the medieval walls when first built. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6f1f4e37-2448-42d0-b549-b5c7451b7612/DSC02050.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out The Cathedral of the Dormition. In the foreground is a fragment from the original walls, destroyed by the Mongols in 1240. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5d34f813-b77b-43ba-abae-7d8dd205a884/DSC02063.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Cathedral interior https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/edbf7551-30d1-453c-bb35-7c2e33563a1a/DSC02053.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out The Cathedral at left and the Refectory Church under stormy skies https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/54d18671-a5ff-49f9-a0ec-67cec72d9ff6/DSC02065+-+banquet+hall.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out The Refectory Church. This is one of the site’s newest buildings, constructed in the 1890s. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2d8ad78d-b098-47e8-9925-133e1b30570c/DSC02068+-+ganquet+hall.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Interior of the Refectory Church https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/46c80aed-7c20-40b6-9162-f587f9164a41/DSC02067+-+banquet+hall.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out The refectory (banquet hall) in the refectory church building https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f40e16bc-07f6-42f4-bb12-6436c85febf1/DSC02950+-+Sholom+Alechiem.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Several museums on site commemorate various aspects of Ukrainian history. This is a photo montage of writer Sholom Aleichim; he and Isaac Babel were the leading Yiddish-language Ukrainian writers of their day. Ukraine’s once-sizable Jewish community mostly arrived after the great exodus when they were evicted from Spain and Portugal in 1492. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5f7d3bd4-a495-4270-99be-4472894fa165/DSC02044.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out The monastery viewed from the north. In the foreground at right is the entrance to the Holodomor Museum, commemorating Stalin’s deliberately-engineered famine to exterminate millions of peasant farmers who resisted collectivisation. See the “Brief History of Ukraine” page of this blog for more info on that. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c6d9ec2e-55fd-467f-a892-806f051d828b/DSC02933.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out This church just outside the monastery grounds is new, and dedicated to Afghan war veterans. 13,000 dead in that 10-year war was considered a national scandal in the USSR. In just over 3 years, Russia has lost over 1 million killed or severely wounded in Ukraine, and no one seems much bothered by that. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d7b886c1-200a-487d-98a8-c6009b7147ab/DSC02070.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Also here south of town are the Soviet-era Motherland Statue (the largest statue in Europe) and Ukraine’s World War II museum, which has been expanded with exhibits from the ongoing War of National Survival. See the “Ukraine at War” page of this blog for photos of some exhibits inside. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/cdeeea46-7ec9-431a-9db2-691d98a3d1fa/IMG-20250530-WA0010.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e4ca72a0-3a9d-4437-9ca1-fcb43c33ad26/DSC02862.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Pecherska Lavra monastery - contested site in a divided church - Make it stand out Typical Socialist-realist WWII monument near the Motherland statue https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/folk-architecture monthly 0.5 2025-07-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6ebdea48-f857-4553-b2c8-1bcd893228f6/DSC02504a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out Just inside the entrance to the sprawling open-air museum, I met this woman, who makes most of her creations using corn husks. Susan’s and my wall and counter space at home are already jammed, and anyway few of these items would have made it home in my full pack in one piece. But when I told her I had driven an ambulance here, she insisted on giving me one of the horseshoes there as a gift. This is the kind of welcome I got everywhere during my visit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/3cf7f7f5-b2d1-4b2b-a8a2-f28dc131d05c/DSC02512a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out The woman in the picture above, with a customer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/14e64334-43b9-4312-a39a-c1c53d21d265/DSC02572a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out A turn-of-the-century home of a prosperous private farmer in the very fertile Black Earth region of Ukraine and southern Russia. These are exactly the people whom Lenin and Trotsky, and later Stalin exterminated through starvation, stealing their seed corn and shooting any who protested. But don’t confuse collectivized agriculture with Marxism. Marx said hardly a word about agriculture, he cared only about urban industry. But the countries that adopted Marxism weren’t those who had leapt ahead in the Industrial Revolution as Marx expected, they didn’t need it. Marxism took hold in backward agrarian societies that had missed the Industrial Revolution and hoped Marxism could propel them forward to catch up. On that basis. Lenin decreed that far from withering away as Marx had predicted, the Party and state would become a permanent totalitarian body driving the nation forward. And most Communist leaders were deeply ashamed of their countries’ peasant origins (unsuitable for Communism in Marx’s eyes) and therefore felt that slaughtering most of them was a necessary step — the few who survived would be tough enough to build Communism. The rest would be enslaved and starved to feed the urban proletariant and then dumped (in Trotsky’s words) “on the ash-heap of history”. Locally-managed, kibbutz-style collective agriculture had existed in northern Russia for centuries, where the hostile climate and frequent crop failures required pooling of resources to survive. The Communists brutally centralised and imposed it on much wealthier peasants in Ukraine and southern Russia, but it is a Russian idea, not a Marxist one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/742e3a6b-c7a6-41eb-aca0-56aad5733298/DSC02619a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out The Mykola’iv church (built 1763) from a village in the Chernihiv Region north of Kyiv, near the Belarus border. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f48f19c8-4526-422a-9f28-72ba82f9cdee/DSC02671a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/06676893-e94e-472b-aac6-40af425ed83e/DSC02524a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out A barn https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d4e70a6a-92ac-4e51-bc9b-2d1021537424/DSC02549a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out A school field trip approaches the old schoolhouse in the rain https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/33db9182-4085-45d8-9a67-e0fa28cbfd4c/DSC02552a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out The Schoolmaster’s quarters in the schoolhouse https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/76479812-e983-451a-a70b-ba3f0c252c8b/DSC02599a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out Intricate wooden architecture. Much of this is without nails, just wood fitted together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8a6254a5-05df-4ac6-a069-5652e2cfde2f/DSC02607a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out Well built yet chimney-less homes from the Polissia region. Smoke doesn’t need an opening to dissipate through a thatched roof (in fact, if you leave a hole in a thatched roof for the smoke to escape, the updrafts will catch the roof on fire). But it takes a while for smoke to dissipate through thatch. In a tall-ceilinged Celtic roundhouse, there’s plenty of room high above head height for the smoke to collect. But I can’t imagine trying to breathe in these low-ceilinged houses. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/aa0e7d12-df56-4e46-bdd9-ec9eddcc34e8/DSC02609a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a4b99d65-9d22-4b06-a9e6-99b11f5a88db/DSC02694a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d0f9e341-693b-429c-8526-d2c3543d8fff/DSC02679a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv’s Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture - Make it stand out A church from the Cherkasska Region, built in 1742 https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/an-industrial-trade-fair-in-kyiv monthly 0.5 2025-07-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e1ff6ed5-0b62-4f55-9416-30ea81919022/DSC02750a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out HardPoint-Raptor manufacturers PPE (personal protective equipment) and Medics’ supplies https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9fc1bb48-3b06-4ad5-bb7f-1f68e12be07f/DSC02729a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out I was surprised to see all these emergency vehicles at the entrance. I thought “Do you really invest in trade fair marketing to sell to local government bureaucrats”??” I asked the reps whom they sell to, and they were cagey, only saying their customers are all inside Ukraine. I think that at the trade fair they market to private companies and very wealthy individuals, any of whom might need more fire engines in wartime. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0065cc2d-54a7-45de-89fc-054d7972b857/DSC02740a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Mine clearing equipment. The Russians mined eastern Ukraine heavily in advance of Ukraine’s 2023 offensive. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/7aa4ee84-bd05-40b9-8638-762c4209e63d/DSC02830a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Ukraine now produces over 1 million drones per year. At present, exporting drones is illegal. But whenever in the distant future the war ends, Ukraine will surely be a global leader, and drones will become a huge source of foreign exchange earnings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/55d125f2-ea5f-442f-9db3-61c410d4788c/DSC02847a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out By contrast, you might see this injection moulding machine at any industrial trade fair in the West https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6af136e5-7bde-4265-8196-a7399dac723b/DSC02755a+-+metalworking+machinery.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Metalworking equipment. Ukraine’s heavy industrial base is primarily in the Russian-speaking and war-ravaged east, where the bombing is much more intense than what I experienced in Kyiv. But, these producers wouldn’t be paying to exhibit here if customers weren’t still buying this stuff. Which just shows, even in the thick of war, life goes on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/28220d14-e940-4fac-917d-2bc7f135c597/DSC02744a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Brokk primarily produces robots and related equipment for demolition work. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0d890a38-b795-4d53-a63f-63fce40acb63/DSC02758a+-+Tekhinvest+oil+%26+gas+equipment.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Tekhinvest Oil & Gas equipment https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/840a9d85-3bac-47a4-94a9-d297f63e71a8/DSC02783a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out I like their tag-line! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/375d2ad9-9f90-4f5a-b2f4-3d7ff78efe7c/DSC02787a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Perimeter security systems https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e8aea2ea-9b65-433d-a3bc-335a95cda0c4/DSC02784a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Tourniquets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c6dcac51-fa14-4778-bb6c-c544f1c2a828/DSC02781a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out High-strength fabrics for belts etc. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/daa97a13-1382-4f85-b8b3-8f72f2d2b22f/DSC02820a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out Founded at the start of the war, Ragnarok makes gun belts and related accessories. Check out the picture on their homepage at Ragnarok.ua. You cannot accuse them of being Woke. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1c6fb90c-f744-4e9f-8fd2-9eaa1290810f/DSC02794a+-+3D+printing.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out 3D printing https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d8f4049a-027e-40a2-a8fc-e86c2c6aa282/DSC02777a.JPG Ukraine at War - Want to see what an industrial trade fair in a war zone looks like? - Make it stand out HeroiCar (HeroCar) was the only charity that I saw exhibiting here. They take donations to procure all-terrain vehicles for the evacuation of wounded. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/babi-yar monthly 0.5 2025-08-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ec3f5f58-d81f-4007-be76-912985eeb06e/DSC03062a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out At the entrance to Babi Yar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/61230359-38af-4ae8-963b-f88953774e5b/Babi_Yar-06-194.jpg Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out Soviet POWs covering the mass graves after the massacre. The site is now heavily wooded, the ravine very narrow and steep. Nazis and Communists alike worked hard to erase the evidence. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c5f0ad0a-b76a-4c5e-8fd2-a57b57e7d144/DSC03117a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out This menorah-shaped memorial was installed on the 50th anniversary of the massacre in 1991 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0cc22925-bb64-4b4c-bbda-be641bd17072/DSC03132a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out The ravine as it looks today - very steep, leafy green, and quiet other than a few birds https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/97580cdc-5699-4891-9455-53c44377ac8c/DSC03067a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out As you come out of Dorohozhychi metro station onto the site, you see this Children’s Memorial. The Communists dug the metro station right through the middle of the site to try to erase it. Now there are memorials on both sides of the station. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/41a5e631-7f0a-45a9-940d-c86c4354ed53/DSC03076a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out Metasequoia trees donated by RememberUs.org in memory of the Jewish children killed here https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5bae0cfe-56f5-415d-b4e8-46c5078a4a04/DSC03176a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out Profiles of Righteous Among Nations, people who risked their lives to save Jews. None of these people were recognised by Yad Veshem until after the fall of the USSR, because the Soviets suppressed any discussion of the Shoah, its perpetrators, and those who tried to stand in its way. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/67ab9c8e-9927-4d22-ad8c-3827c97385b4/DSC03187a.jpg Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out The Mirror Field. The layout represents the Hebrew Tree of Life, its branches broken by the Shoah. The bullet holes are real, made with the same cailbre of bullets used to kill people here. A continuous drone of different pitches emantes here. Each pitch represents a letter of the Hebrew alphabet, musically reading out the names of the victims. Overlaying this are music by Ravel, Schnittke, and Shostakovich, traditional Yiddish songs, ritual music, and the names and ages of individual victims being read out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9520d416-e88f-4969-a8e4-05d97db7195e/DSC03168.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out Memorial to tens of thousands of Roma (gypsies) killed here https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e8fbec61-c8be-4484-a3b6-5270480c2d3a/DSC03238a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out The earliest monument erected at Babi Yar, commemorating Soviet citizens murdered here https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9b9778da-5358-4dd6-83c6-43a7e73cdf03/DSC03096a.JPG Ukraine at War - Paying my respects at the Babi Yar Holocaust site - Make it stand out This monument at Babi Yar commemorates a separate tragedy, the Kurenivka Mudslide in 1961 — a badly maintained dam burst, sending a massive mudslide into a built-up area very near here and killing about 1,500 people. All news of it was suppressed. These are bricks recovered from the ruins. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/ants-kitchen monthly 0.5 2025-07-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a458fcb8-05bb-4b1a-a9d1-99ee7a2f8178/IMG-20250527-WA0008.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out Ants founder Kostyantyn (in green) with several of the volunteers. Many are war refugees themselves, who work full-time jobs to make ends meet in addition to volunteering here. Several ex-pats are also a core part of the team. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/aead24b5-65e5-441a-b729-b20254660fff/IMG-20250604-WA0000.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out Preparing ingredients for drying https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/3c6119ff-3105-4c7d-9052-85e5f98fc0fa/20250526_113537.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out Me peeling beets. They will go into a veggie chopper and then be laid out on grates in an industrial dryer, for inclusion in a variety of meals. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/09ceb16b-a9fb-4289-b400-cd48a3575bcc/20250526_104419.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out In addition to vegetable soup, the menu today included a special treat — cookies. In the background you can see my new friend and fellow Londoner Patrick, who told me about this place. We met on my second night in the hostel; he helped me find my way in Kyiv, and I translated for him when he signed an apartment lease. The rental agent was very surprised to hear we had just met, he assumed we were childhood mates. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1c8e19ea-47d6-4ff6-9763-6f1c2972c824/20250526_132042.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out This was the last day at work for Chris at left, who was returning home to Canada after volunteering for several months here. It was an emotional farewell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/b2bd3e51-c8f6-40e3-bca1-b364f64f2e98/20250526_121940a.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out This was taken on Monday, 26 May. Virtually everyone had been awake for over 72 hours, due to relentless Russian air raids for 3 nights straight (Putin especially loves to bomb on weekends, for some reason.) My friend Patrick (next to me) and I had a bomb shelter in our hostel where we could cat-nap, and people in the city centre can run to metro stations. But out here on the Left Bank of the Dnipro, very little is bomb-proof. I was amazed at how cheerful and positive they all were, doing their bit to keep the troops fed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ca46e047-407e-4064-941c-19a1e732bcc4/WhatsApp+Image+2025-06-08+at+21.23.25_201d8ebf.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/cd8c86cd-2e9b-4fc4-9ff2-9251bae5b735/IMG-20250530-WA0000.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c09feed2-49ab-4ddb-9281-a1823421cc69/20250526_151545a.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d18ba011-e684-4485-8cfb-1746cb4e3153/IMG-20250529-WA0003.jpg Ukraine at War - “Ants” kitchen - providing nutritious meals to the Troops - Make it stand out Kostyantyn being interviewed about the charity. Over the past 3 years, the charity has developed considerable resources and expertise in customs clearance, warehousing and transportation all over Ukraine, and they are ready to support private clients in this area. They can also help you line up accomodation and whatever services or rental equipment you may need. If interested, contact me at lorengerl@gmail.com, or Kostyantyn directly here. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/kyiv-nightlife monthly 0.5 2025-07-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/3d3e9f34-d2c3-48d3-8347-15f0eaf7f49b/ProEnglish+Theatre+2.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv Nightlife - Make it stand out I saw the ProEnglish Theatre of Kyiv’s final performance of “Once Upon a Time in Ukraine”, before they took the show on the road to the Prague Fringe Festival (set up by a Scotsman who got fed up with the costs and crowds of the Edinburgh Fringe). The directors built the script around verbatim first-hand accounts of war victims and refugees in the early months of the war in 2022. It is a powerful piece of theatre that I highly recommend. For more info, see their website here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d6442347-0299-4d35-a2d9-d2e60f5970ac/ProEnglish+Theatre+3a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv Nightlife - Make it stand out The ProEnglish Theatre’s performance of “Once Upon a Time in Ukraine”. The word chalked on the floor is “Children”. This word was written in huge leaders on the roof of a jam-packed theatre in Mariupol that was being used as an air raid shelter, when the Russian airforce obliterated it. Over the weekend of 8-9 June 2025, a missile destroyed an apartment building one block from the theatre. But the theatre and its members are ok. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/11591782-d2eb-4d51-911a-dfd77d2c08f1/20250528_200910a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv Nightlife - Make it stand out Placemat at Pepper’s Club https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/4981eb2e-2552-4397-bdd8-6bab61f0ffe3/DSC03010a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv Nightlife - Make it stand out The Kyiv Opera House still puts on a full programme — the performance that night was Aida. Everywhere in Kyiv most nightlife finishes by around 10:30 PM, as that’s when the air raids tend to get more intense. And a curfew is in effect from midnight to 5 AM. Operas are long, so performances here often start around 5 PM. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d774d48a-9dc4-4df9-a113-f243a58cfe1a/DSC01705a+-+Sunduk+pub.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv Nightlife - Make it stand out Sunduk Pub near the Maidan is another good live music venue, although not offering music every night like Pepper’s Club https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/52784ea1-5c7d-4e71-8616-01885da64e6a/DSC03298a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv Nightlife - Make it stand out If you spend any time at all in Kyiv you’re bound to meet Mike Wilson, the larger-than-life Montanan at left there who retired here 6 years ago after falling in love with Ukraine during his first visit 20 years ago, and coming several times thereafter. He’s currently seeking financing to set up a cowboy bar in Kyiv, which I agree will have a market here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/4d24d764-9847-4644-9481-11590ff033a8/DSC03320a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv Nightlife - Make it stand out I met Mike at one of the networking events that happen 3-4 times a month in Kyiv. He saw me, said “I don’t know you, what’s your name?” and promptly started introducing me to fun and interesting people, both locals and ex-pats. He then invited me to join him here at his weekly table at the Pepper Club, a venue which by then I already knew well and liked. Fun night! https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/murals monthly 0.5 2025-08-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8c0bd4eb-3544-48cc-a680-34fd9ce1d1d5/56.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out This is my favourite mural in Kyiv, created by artist Kateryna Rudakova with support from the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR). A little girl holds up a drawing saying “Passport Ukraine I am a Citizen” in Ukrainian. See the hashtag #IBelong at top right. In the background we see the famous Swallow’s Nest clifftop castle in Yalta in the Crimea. There are several ways to view this. In one sense, It draws attention to stateless refugees worldwide, who have no passports or other proof of citizenship, no home to go to. More specifically, it draws attention to millions of Ukrainians trapped in Crimea and other occupied regions who have been forced to take Russian citizenship, and who can be summarily arrested and disappeared just for speaking Ukrainian on the street, their nationality entirely denied to them. But it also draws attention to the mixed reception that refugees from the East have received. When refugees from the East fled in large numbers to Kyiv and western Ukraine, first in 2014 and then in much larger numbers in 2022, they were regarded with widespread suspicion by their Ukrainian-speaking hosts. “These refugees speak the language of our enemy, they know no Ukrainian at all, how can we trust them? They could be spies.” The Russian Empire and the USSR suppressed and to a fair extent eradicated Ukrainian language and culture in the eastern regions. In the 1800s the Ukrainian language really only thrived in the West around Lviv, which was part of Poland or Austria for centuries until 1939. Western Ukraine was spared the pogroms, the Holodomor, and all the other prominent features of Russian-Soviet barbarism until the twilight of Stalin’s rule. Post-independence, the result was a sharply linguistically divided country. In Lviv, everyone forgot the Russian they’d been forced to learn in post-war Soviet times, and speaking Russian would be met with blank stares. While until 2014, most Ukrainians in the East saw little reason to learn Ukrainian, with Russian being more useful across a wider area. Western Ukraine was the home of the pro-Western parties that launched the Orange Revolution in 2004, while Easterners tended to vote for pro-Russian parties, having little connection to the EU but strong economic ties to Russia and often relatives there. Kyiv was the dividing line, a bi-lingual city but most residents had a clear preference for one language or the other. The ease with which Putin captured the ethnically Russian-majority Crimea and Donbas in 2014 stoked suspicion of Russian-speaking Ukrainians, and Putin himself thought most would support his wider invasion in 2022. Instead, Russian-speaking ethnic Ukrainians have risen to the defence of Ukraine en masse, enduring exceptional hardships along the way. The hostility (gratuitous document checks etc) toward Russian-speaking refugees in the West has died down, but western Ukrainians still resent how little effort some refugees make to learn Ukrainian. Children in school anywhere in Ukraine have to learn it because all instruction is in Ukrainian, but Ukrainian refugees in e.g. Poland are still speaking to their children in Russian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d508c1ac-1fc9-49e3-bdf1-e13615549db5/53.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out Poem dedicated to soldiers leaving their homes and families to fight, called FOR THE SAKE OF FREEDOM And the day will end, and the sun will set, Birds will fly and you will see it, whatever the weather And your heart will beat faster, and you will say goodbye — Ukraine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/48e1ce38-4807-4135-b667-06aebbc3fc59/60.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out Volodymyr Manzhos’ famous “Victory” mural: a Ukrainian cossack (the haircut is a dead giveaway) gives a swift kick to the Russian bear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/67778500-6768-4507-9c25-3aedaa1db00e/58.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out A soldier in a field of wheat. Ukraine is a massive food exporter, mainly to the Middle East. Putin initially assumed he could capture the port at Odesa (or at a minimum shut down traffic in and out of it), thereby starving Ukraine of foreign exchange. Instead, Ukraine owns the Black Sea. Russia has had to abandon their main Black Sea naval base in Crimea (the protection of which was the original causus belli) and hole up far to the east. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/cde3b629-e046-47bf-826a-f27d3ea8c388/55.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out This mural towering over the entrance to a pub honours the Healers. At left, Swiss businessman Henri Dunant co-founded the International Red Cross in 1863 after witnessing the staggering suffering and lack of care at the battle of Solferino in 1859. At right, Ukraine’s first responders. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/15c65c1f-79e3-4f57-b514-54dc3c1d1713/51.jpg Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out BB King outside a popular pub https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/3f476b3a-1e98-49a2-96ac-a5d2d7f654de/57.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out Most murals are painted on big side walls, but this one is tucked into an apartment entryway. You can see the intercom and buzzers at right. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/03661b15-df8b-4786-b374-08dbb134a147/61.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out Ukraine’s fighter pilots are vastly outnumbered, but they still take the fight to Russia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/fd7159c6-ffcb-428d-a594-394263682eb5/64.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out This mural is called “The Rebirth”. It’s just a few doors down from Dream Hostel on Andriivsky Descent, the atmospheric 1,000-year-old street leading from the formerly walled medieval Old Town on the plateau down to the fashionable riverside Podil district. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/fe43ced9-3862-468b-8d9b-b597b05365e0/63.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out This is your more run-of-the-mill “Whaa??” modern art. The talk balloon says “Do yu laik zis muvi?” (i.e. “Do you like this movie?” in English with a thick Slavic accent) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/30bca641-98e5-464a-a90f-6f2b36f1c095/59.JPG Ukraine at War - The Murals of Kyiv - Make it stand out In a playground https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/kyiv-at-war monthly 0.5 2025-07-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/631806d4-bf9f-4189-83fb-ccfd35f01044/DSC02272a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out 23 May is Heroes Day in Ukraine. This was at the commemoration on Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square) a.k.a. “The Maidan” on 23 May 2025. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8c16def0-b19c-48cb-99e8-9a0bdc426c64/DSC01637a+-+with+Yaroslav+Falush.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out With my new friend Yaroslav at the Destroyed Military Equipment Exhibition, composed of Russian vehicles destroyed during the battle for Kyiv https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/baa60a0d-cbc3-4b1e-b03e-a9859ce0251a/DSC01642a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out At the Destroyed Military Equipment Exhibition https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0ab68d12-5f59-449a-96ef-358787c0dab0/DSC01965a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out The permanent memorial to the heroes of the war, at the Maidan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/4de77f1a-029b-4797-99b9-bacbfff93528/DSC02712a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Each flag represents a fallen soldier, including the thousands of little flags. Representing the ranks of the International Legion you’ll see flags of the US, UK, Latvia, Turkey, Poland, France, and many more. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/728774da-cf94-4c6c-865b-865667235c13/DSC02000.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Veterans at the Maidan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5dab67b6-98c7-49bd-a3ee-c24d9bb7aec9/IMG-20250529-WA0006.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out The Tryzub (Trident) was on the coat of arms of Kyiv’s first ruling famiy over 1,000 years ago, and was adopted as the Coat of Arms by the short-lived independent state of Ukraine in 1918. In 1992 the Verhovna Rada (national parliament) adopted it as a national emblem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8c775db0-68f6-47d7-a4a5-28ca598eaa85/DSC01980a+-+field+hospital.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Picture of an amputee taken at a field hospital inside the Avtostal steel plant in Mariupol during the vicious battle there in 2022. Completely surrounded and cut off from resupply, the Ukrainian forces held out here for weeks. Some of the POWs were just released in a prisoner exchange after 2.5 years in captivity. They recounted repeated beatings and electric shock torture. Mariupol is also where the Russian air force bombed a theatre which civilians were using as a bomb shelter, with the word “ДЕТИ” (“Children”) written in large letters on the roof. Hundreds of civilians were killed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e6dc2273-472c-4894-995e-7adb3cc852a0/DSC02286a+-+Maidan+Martyrs+2013-14.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Memorial to civilians shot by President Yanukovich’s forces during the Euromaidan protests in 2013-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/18138fad-e813-452d-b0ad-8314db346048/DSC03387a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Anti-tank barriers stacked at the Maidan. They were used during the Euromaidan protests in 2013-14, and deployed again during the Battle for Kyiv in 2022 when Russian forces were just a few miles away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ff2c6429-1d47-4586-9bb5-fd49fcdee380/DSC02016a+-+Roadblocks+near+government+offices.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Roadblocks and guardposts near government offices https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ec1fe805-1e44-46af-b28c-1b803aa3139c/DSC02020+-+Chernobyl+firefighters%27+memorial.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Memorial to a different fight — this commemorates the firefighters who died at Chernobyl, given no information about what they were going up against. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/61831374-1c4b-4fd2-9dce-e70ba0da17b3/DSC01608a+-+Aid+for+the+troops.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Most weekends you will find the leaders of this charity by Kontraktova Square metro station displaying these souvenirs from the front, and soliciting donations to provide comforts for the troops. The government supplies the troops with absolute necessities; this charity seeks to provide extras that make life a little more bearable, based on requests from the troops. It could be edible treats, it could be items that make life in the trenches more comfortable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/794c78b3-9606-47a3-b3c3-7ec1ecb11eca/DSC02380a+-+in+the+Hostel+shelter.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out In the basement bomb shelter at Dream Kostel in Kyiv, around 1 AM. Half an hour earlier the entire building had shaken, which we assumed was a nearby hit. Finding no damage anywhere near us the following morning, we concluded that we must have felt the vibration of a mobile air defence missile being launched near our location. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/4a612a28-eff6-4276-80e3-8c1169c5433e/20250527_203221.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2e196b13-6914-4b06-8233-695830b17e82/20250527_203222.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/74c620cb-bd16-4387-aa2a-4e67f126aa98/DSC02381+Air+raid+tally.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Results of the previous night nationwide: 6 Iskander ballistic missiles shot down (these are what really terrify people), and 245 drones destroyed (mostly Iranian Shahed drones), of which 128 shot down and 117 suppressed with electronic jamming. Multiple apps keep citizens well apprised of what’s happening both in their locality and nationwide. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/eafa1ff0-237a-43ed-a11a-dabf95e9222a/DSC02382a+air+raid+alerts.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Scanning nationwide air raid alerts as I sip a coffee in my hostel’s courtyard in late morning. Look at the time stamps (all using the 24-hour clock) — Kyiv is almost completely quiet during daylight and early evening hours, but alerts of drones, missiles and artillery fire are coming in all day long from war-ravaged locations to the east. (Most of these apps are free, and if you don’t read Ukrainian you can pay a few Euros per month to have everything automatically translated into English or the language of your choice.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/40cd09ae-252d-4954-b228-f2a02a458b54/20250527_203219.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out See all the people on benches and folding chairs in the Underground — the air raid siren had just gone off. Many citizens have spent many nights down here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ec5e5715-a1e1-4c1f-a3e8-3ed24b046831/20250527_112108a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out I loved this Ukrainian Army recruiting poster in the Metro. It says “We prepare for any and all situations”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9fae33f4-c0a5-461e-9618-fb50a44e812f/DSC02902a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out Profile of a current member of Ukraine’s International Legion https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ba68a18b-e4e4-4224-9c8c-56f2b1d4d43b/DSC02904a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out The National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War has now been augmented with exhibits from the current war, including this drone exhibit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5b06e103-16c8-48df-8dea-c1e3f2ab41f3/DSC02890a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out There is a wall in the museum where anyone can leave messages. This was mine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/302d9df3-795e-48d6-9935-bdca16942b99/DSC02034a+-a+javelin.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out In the National Museum of Military History you’ll find a display of this simple, cheap American weapon that made a massive difference during the initial days of the Russian invasion and the Battle for Kyiv — the Javelin Anti-Tank guided missile. It’s a “fire and forget” missile — as soon as a camouflaged operator fires a missile at a tank (thereby revealing his or her location to the enemy), the operator can run like hell, trusting that the missile will automatically lock on its target. But rather than flying straight into the tank’s well-armoured sides, it zooms up, flips, and dives straight down into the vulnerable turret, knocking a multi-million-dollar tank out for a fraction of the tank’s cost. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/7d37a011-301b-44b7-b26c-9f76646e2de1/DSC02914a.JPG Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out In the National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War, now augmented with exhibits from the Euromaidan violence and the current war https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8fc90f9c-f5c5-4cea-b443-b8fc4cf429b3/20250527_205935a.jpg Ukraine at War - Kyiv at War - Make it stand out The word “Ukrittya” (“Shelter”) has definitely entered my long-term active Ukrainian vocabulary. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/kyiv monthly 0.5 2025-07-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/560a4b7a-81d8-413e-bac3-aea1d11a6b82/DSC01716a+-+Renaissance+hotel.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out The Renaissance Hotel. All of Kyiv’s upscale hotels still operate as normal. All have bomb shelters in the basement. The placard on the kiosk at the bottom of the photo says “What’s important are actions, not slogans”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ac992ec7-a7b0-45fe-ad19-77bd3018f26d/DSC01726a+-+On+Khreshchatykh%2C+the+main+drag.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out On Khreshchatykh, Kyiv’s 19th-century main drag. It was originally a muddy alleyway between the walls of the Old City and the Pecherska Lavra monastery to the south, but grew into something substantially greater in the 1800s. The Nazis destroyed it during their retreat in 1944, but it was completely rebuilt. Note the detail in the facades — all over Kyiv I found the facades of historic buildings typically more intricate than in Moscow or St Pete. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c9cbab85-fe52-4613-a3ce-7f5d53ab693c/DSC03010a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Kyiv’s opera house still runs a full programme. The performance that night was Aida. The air raids usually heat up after 10:30 PM, so most nightlife finishes around then. A nightly curfew is in place from midnight to 5 AM. Opera performances often start as early as 5 PM. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/b2d768e2-e08f-46b9-8df0-4af9d0a02b1e/DSC01944a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Central Kyiv https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/19843d8a-365a-4da9-80e5-d8452b95f5bc/DSC01950a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out In the heart of the Old City https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/654f04df-fcff-4cdc-aaed-88e3b3fc7286/DSC03016a+-+the+Golden+Gate.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out 19th-century reproduction of the Golden Gate, the main entrance to the walled city from around 1020 AD until Genghis Khan destroyed Kyiv in 1240 AD. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9edc08b1-02f5-4891-b1e6-ed137ef6f910/DSC01677a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out The 1,000-year-old Cathedral of St Sophia, named after the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople. Like the rest of Kyiv, it fell into severe disrepair after the Mongol conquest, but was restored to its full glory under Polish dominion in the 1500s when the Poles were trying to re-unite the Catholic and Orthodox churches. (The result of that effort was the creation of the Greek Catholic Church, a.k.a. the Uniate Church, which is still the predominant faith in western Ukraine. They practice Eastern rites but recognise the authority of the Pope in Rome.) A few days after I left Kyiv, a bomb fell here, but luckily only did minor damage. It may have just been debris from an intercepted drone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e8bf0832-6788-4446-90a6-5ec9f486472e/DSC01790a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out The Cathedral of St Volodymyr, named for the prince who converted the kingdom to Christianity 1,000 years ago. He was the great grandson of Rurik the Viking who founded the kingdom of Kyivan Rus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5f454cca-5552-417a-b2c7-26def017eaa8/DSC01656a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out St Michael’s Cathedral https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/25280a32-b923-4df5-8a66-173b4287985c/DSC02707a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square), viewed from the Hotel Kyiv. This is where the Euromaidan protests took place in 2013-2014. Following the Orange Revolution in 2004-05, Ukraine’s pro-Western parties had proven inept and corrupt, and pro-Russian candidate Viktor Yanukovych had won the presidency in 2010. Yanukovych explicitly promised to lead Ukraine into an Association Agreement with the European Union which would eventually lead to EU membership. This was formally endorsed by an overwhelming majority of Parliament. But in late 2013, under intense pressure from Putin, Yanukovich broke this promise and pledged to put Ukraine instead into a free trade union with Russia. Massive protests broke out here on the Maidan. From November 2013 to February 2014, hundreds of protestors were shot by Yanukovych’s policemen (some operating from this exact vantage point). But the protestors would not be deterred, and in February 2014 (just as Putin was hosting the Winter Olympics in Sochi) they drove Yanukovich from power. He has lived comfortably in Moscow ever since. The palace that he built for himself in Kyiv is now a tourist attraction. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/169def2c-73e3-4b20-8481-63ed2acc6a40/DSC01963a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Reverse view, from the Maidan looking up at the Hotel Kyiv. This was the view mainy Euromaidan protestors had when Yanukovych’s police were shooting them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/85f30aa8-679d-4f39-80be-4b8a0b59ecde/DSC03350a.jpg Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Looking from the Maidan toward St Sophia’s https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/571cdf5c-7ffb-4519-ad9f-b410acf54032/DSC01838a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out In the fashionable Vozdvizhenska district of central Kyiv — the presence of multiple embassies and consulates here likely affords some protection. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/470c9427-2e98-41e1-a3f2-3f021790ae9e/DSC01863a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out A park and residences in Vozdvizhenska District https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/19dda8b2-a948-41ca-ae2c-68af614456d8/DSC01876a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out There was a film crew here. I think it may have been a film school. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/35cc9639-f463-4ea8-bf65-276b662b1a00/DSC02345a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out The fashionable Podil district of Kyiv, below the Old City near the Dnipro River. I would find it nerve-wracking to live in a high-rise, because you’ll never reach a bomb shelter in time if you wait to run until you hear the air raid siren. But few people sleep in a shelter every single night, either. When the siren goes, most people just go to a hallway or bathroom where they can observe the “two wall rule” — two walls between you and the outdoors will protect you from flying glass and other light debris if something hits nearby. But that won’t protect you from a direct hit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f67cedbb-ba25-49ee-8ee1-13458d28c274/DSC02355a+-+Starting+down+Andriivsky+Descent.jpg Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out St. Andriiy’s Cathedral and the top of Andriivsky Uzviz (“Andrew’s Descent”), the 1,000-year-old street leading from the once-walled Old Town up on the plateau, down to the fashionable Podil riverside district below. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/05268279-c57a-43dd-a215-ed5954d67e22/DSC02239.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Unlike Kyiv’s older cathedrals which are very traditionally Orthodox in design, the cathedral of St. Andriy is very baroque https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a0756ae8-9063-46fa-b037-9a547053ff1e/DSC02358a+-+view+from+the+cathedral.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out View down Andriivsky Descent from the balcony of St Andriy’s Cathedral. Just behind the street you can see the Podil district. In the distance are the mostly-Soviet-era high-rises of the almost entirely residential Left Bank of the Dnipro. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/48cf09bf-431a-4c0e-8905-131605f65a8a/DSC02360a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out On Andriivsky Descent. The sign in the window at lower left says “For sale”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/60afc93a-e8a1-4af2-b085-c27d2decc8cc/DSC02378+-+Hostel+entrance.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out The garlanded entryway at lower left leads into the courtyard that houses Dream Hostel in Kyiv, the best place in the city to stay. It’s perfectly located on Andriivsky Uz’viz, and it’s the only hostel with a bomb shelter in the basement……. which as I discovered is a great place to get to know your fellow travellers. And being in a small 3-story building surrounded by taller buildings affords additional protection. It has a cool restaurant in the building and live music several nights a week. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/04948751-a7b4-4724-845b-41968a68d0be/12+-+Museum+of+One+Streeta.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out In the Museum of One Street, which documents Andriivsky Descent in its pre-revolutionary heyday https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f008900f-7fcb-4645-a972-77ca183a1922/DSC02379a+-+by+the+hostel%2C+air+raid+sounding.jpg Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out At a bar by the hostel shortly after the air ride siren has gone off. Everyone will have checked their app and seen that so far it’s just drones. The vast majority of drones get intercepted, so most people ignore them — if the sound gets too close, they’ll just run inside to avoid being hit by fallen debris from the intercepted drone. But if the warning shows missiles or bombers, these people will move. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/dd7dd568-3165-4c5b-9e3f-52e49ce5a2a9/DSC01763a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Boris Johnson (painted here on an outdoor table at a bakery cafe) is a popular figure in Ukraine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/68730d9f-92ff-481a-b431-07712001b771/DSC01762a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Puzata Khata (“Belly Hut”, the red building at right) is a ubiquitous restaurant chain very popular with students and others on a budget. With quick cafeteria-style service, $5 will buy you a sizeable, nutritious and tasty meal — it won’t win any Michelin stars, but in a poor country at war that isn’t the first priority. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/7457e5f7-2613-49ab-8680-6afc0a43df90/DSC01902a+-+Prince+Sviatoslav.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Statue of Prince Sviatoslav on Peizazhna (“Landscape”) Street overlooking the river, who ruled from 940-972 AD. He was the grandson of Rurik the Viking who founded the kingdom of Kyivan Rus, and the last pagan ruler of the kingdom (his son Vladimir converted ancient Rus to Christianity). Sviatoslav’s shield is adorned with the traditional Trident of his dynasty, which was adopted as Ukraine’s official Coat of Arms after independence in 1992. The split of Rus into the three distinct nationalities of Russian, Belarussian and Ukrainian happened during the centuries of separation under Mongol occupation and the centuries therafter, when this area came under Polish dominion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/cba7c61b-8658-4941-811b-50161513b546/DSC01904a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out “Alice in Wonderland” themed playground on Peizazhna https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/7f926fde-9ec6-45e5-9c02-b10dfb3cfa79/DSC01899a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out Like the Poles, the Ukrainians are fond of rubbing statues for good luck. You can tell which parts get rubbed frequently. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/dfe4836f-bced-4c54-9fa3-467086df7900/DSC03379a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out In Soviet times, everyone with money and clout wanted to live in the city centre. But after 1991, a lot of money moved out to outlying districts and further to suburban towns. This is near Oblonskiy Island Park north of Kyiv city centre — older, dilapidated Soviet matchbox apartments stand right alongside visible new money. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/7d2f2907-e131-496a-81eb-3ddcdd0f4cbe/DSC03370a.JPG Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out The weekend flea market at Pochaina metro station north of the centre. Here you’ll find old Soviet lapel pins, coins and military kit, as well as a wide variety of knick-knacks and basic necessities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/34487140-bc77-448f-89d7-ad34ad33eb7f/Bomb+damage+2.jpg Ukraine at War - Beautiful, elegant Kyiv - Make it stand out In many days of walking all over Kyiv, the small building at right is the only building I saw destroyed by bombing. It’s west of the centre, in an area frequently targeted due to armaments production and power plants in the vicinity. Shortly after I left, though, another building in this area very close to where I spent a bit of time got destroyed. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/bucha-and-irpin monthly 0.5 2025-08-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/4f9f3e62-0ca8-4531-a37c-0281e85cea9c/DSC02120.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out At the Car Graveyard in Irpin, now a war memorial. Numerous cars were fired upon and their occupants killed as they tried to flee along the ring road directly over my left shoulder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/89e87194-bb51-4147-bfda-db5453af36f5/DSC02038a.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out You can see Bucha and Irpin circled in blue just outside Kyiv’s city limits to the northwest. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a71570c9-5e18-4aec-a449-afc4f851bacd/DSC02141+frontliner_bucha_yablunska_2022.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out The massacre on Yablunska Street. Dozens of POWs and civilians were executed here over several days with a gunshot to the head. Using camera footage and phone records, the New York Times was able to pin the murders here on Russia’s 234th Paratrooper Batallion. Putin of course insists the civilians were killed after Ukrainian forces retook the town, but satellite photos show the bodies lying in the streets when Russia was in complete control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/513ebb60-f992-4054-bdb1-27c84d4336f7/DSC02140a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out The same spot on the date of my visit, 22 May 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/27af9035-5bdd-4735-8eb1-9d287d0875f4/DSC02135+frontliner_bucha_yablunska_2022.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Also on Yablunska Street, about 200 metres from the previous photo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ff51c70b-8c7d-4082-a5a2-2119ae1b4cae/DSC02134.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Same spot on the day of my visit. If you turn left onto Vokzalna Street at the roundabout there, you soon come to the site of the next photo… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/96d042de-7b41-497a-8669-b380ad9bb8f3/DSC02185.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Probably the most famous image from Bucha, this is a view of Russian tanks destroyed on 27-28 February on Vokzalna Street, the main north-south road connecting Irpin and Bucha. This destruction was pivotal in stopping the advance on Kyiv. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/3cc198f0-3b67-4ad8-a124-c47951d1ea07/DSC02184.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Vokzalna Street on the day of my visit, 22 May 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8ef7f116-201a-4dcd-b13a-dafa920c4475/DSC02142.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Plaque on Volkzalna Street. The other side has the same information in Ukrainian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a1ed8963-6e7d-4254-9a03-954224b7adaa/DSC02176+frontliner_bucha_exhumation_2022.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Exhuming bodies from the mass grave after the liberation, next to the Church of the Apostle Andrew https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/43721ba9-d8c3-42d0-9204-a870b922497b/DSC02177+Euro+news+mass+grave.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out The mass grave https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/b41150fa-3721-49c4-8170-b05c9c28ce49/DSC02171a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out The site of the mass grave by the church is now a memorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c62943df-93ce-4e90-9f97-c08d78e1e68f/DSC02164a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out At the memorial site. The other side of the plaque is in Ukrainian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/96a16791-2fd6-4643-ba54-9ed64b92b32d/DSC02194+frontliner_irpin_from_bucha_2022.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Giraffe Mall on the the border between Bucha and Irpin on Vokzalna Street. The sign in the middle of the street says “MINES” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c9fe24d5-6b36-4d6f-b16f-c01eed4f9f70/DSC02193a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Giraffe Mall on the day of my visit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2a7afc16-aa5e-4f84-bc8e-7b15cde94189/DSC02199.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Checkpoint Giraffe by the Giraffe shopping mall at the border between Bucha and Irpin, manned primarily by local civilian militia during the battle https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2437670f-c196-441e-bf20-a4f0ee86a132/DSC02205a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8d607e8b-64f5-4892-848f-da157c373969/Irpin.jpg Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Irpin just after the liberation https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/37b43eac-b566-42e3-b078-b52b99993d0e/DSC02098.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Irpin on the day of my visit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0632f6f4-1f0d-4ade-a470-eb187da1767f/DSC02090a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Irpin city hall on the day of my visit, fronted by a statue of Ukraine’s national poet Taras Shevchenko https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c51684f8-39d4-4daa-a62a-9970a9e8dc19/DSC02094a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Memorial in Irpin to local soldiers killed over the past three years of war https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d57983ee-f846-4996-832c-7eca0b4d95d7/DSC02107.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Bullet holes filled in in Irpin https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/b64a7dc1-d38e-4bf6-894e-db8c51323af0/DSC02110.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out In Soviet times everyone wanted to live in the city centres, and suburbs like Bucha and Irpin were usually a mix of lower-working-class matchbox apartment buildings, and modest dachas (summer homes) for well-off urbanites. But since the end of Communism, many wealthy have adopted the Western concept of a big primary home in the ‘burbs. This one is in Irpin; to what extent it was damaged and restored I don’t know, because in many cases one street was devastated while an adjacent street was untouched. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e81dbc59-06a5-426b-a995-cdab1870a123/DSC02154a.JPG Ukraine at War - Massacre, Resilience & Rebuilding in the Suburbs of Kyiv - Make it stand out Rebuilding continues. Architects from all over the world volunteered to assist. Of course any of these new buildings could be hit at any time in an air raid, but people want their lives back. https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/ukraine/ambulance-convoy-to-ukraine monthly 0.5 2025-07-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/35f76111-42c7-4803-9f00-ce727543fd53/DSC00877a.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out MLLU’s Century Convoy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/28348838-3f6f-4444-a7fa-4bb167a58640/DSC00878.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Clearing French customs in Calais, to transit across the EU to Ukraine. The word “Ambulance” is printed backward so it reads properly in rear-view mirrors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a9ca09aa-d2f5-45a5-be47-6f7994ad120f/DSC00923.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Drivers’ team dinner in Germany on Day 1 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/aad56924-bd4d-4e05-9f9e-413377644761/DSC00964.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Crossing Germany on the autobahn on Day 2 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6b640237-c912-470d-ba97-282e2b3cb938/DSC00922a.JPG Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out The team at dinner in Germany. You’ll be amazed how quickly a 4-day drive goes by when you’re in such fun company. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ca0df832-049b-4c8e-914a-ac3df31ea7d0/DSC00871.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Our mechanic Mark (making his 9th trip to Ukraine) readies the Incident Response Unit, the largest vehicle in the convoy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/796c61d3-a0d1-49f4-a4e3-6a9a1f8bf280/DSC00875.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out All loaded up. The passenger car trains are completely enclosed, so car drivers stay with their vehicles during the 20-minute journey. But as you can see, the trains for larger vehicles aren’t enclosed, so drivers ride in a separate train car. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d60e07df-155f-4bab-90f4-0ba84e42ab9d/DSC00945.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out My wife Susan had knitted Ukrainian gnomes to ride with each ambulance. They took their places on the dashboards, and are still with the vehicles now as far as I know. That’s Volodymyr in my vehicle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d6186a98-bc96-40a8-8907-d9131da1e052/DSC00939.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Morning briefing on Day 2 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/94ec5142-dfaf-4d4c-90df-11aa9325c2d0/DSC00940a.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Mark works his mechanical magic https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c195e766-285b-4955-a2ff-2accbced069f/DSC01000.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Drivers’ dinner in Wroclaw on night 2 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/bee0800a-2914-42b3-b231-e2c8bfa50dae/DSC01008a.JPG Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out A fascinating chat with Ivan in Wroclaw https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/73defbe8-6734-4299-a63c-3114b642dc37/DSC00986.JPG Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out A beautiful spring evening in Wroclaw https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/6c5d6dbe-fdb4-40ad-a4c3-cfc8dc003d27/IMG-20250513-WA0009a.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Leona drives past a field of rape (canola), which with the sky makes the colours of the Ukrainian flag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/c5850a30-d6b5-4297-8eaf-7de25bdc7c2a/One-slide+team+profiles.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out The Century Convoy team. Most of these were taken at dinner in remote eastern Poland on Day 3. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9b489bc6-2d8f-4423-9bfa-90ea49fabb60/IMG-20250514-WA0000+-+at+the+border.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Waiting to enter Polish customs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/f52091d1-b6be-4c81-b055-b2998de78566/IMG-20250514-WA0005.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out In some places in the world, the dividing line between a war zone and a “peace” zone is very sudden. In 2001, for example, I drove from Sarajevo southward through several hours of war devastation, until suddenly crossing an invisible line into the ethnically Croatian area which looked like Italy, its villas and vineyards untouched. But coming from Poland into Ukraine is not like that at all. Yes, you have just crossed into an official war zone, and just about the only health insurance valid here is the remarkably affordable policies sold by VisitUkraine.today. But here in the far West, the only obvious evidence of war is the Ukrainian International Legion recruiting office at the border. Far from Russia and its drones and missiles, the villages here in far western Ukraine have beautiful churches and fine villas alongside the Communist-era dachas (country houses). We saw no war damage at all. But you do have to watch vigilantly for potholes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/2e4066b9-1e70-4d96-839b-8d280465bee6/IMG-20250514-WA0001.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Broken down just inside Ukraine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/46646815-2602-46a8-bb47-72c11202af69/IMG-20250514-WA0002.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Shifting cargo between vehicles https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/bac1b4b6-9c94-4e78-bbb7-35a3ff99bd07/IMG-20250514-WA0011.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out The Century Convoy’s handover in Lviv of MLLU’s 100th ambulance to its new owners, who will take it back to their war-ravaged community further east to save lives https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8f997b1a-e87e-40f1-8dcb-80a586c5418f/IMG-20250514-WA0019.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Peter and Mark hand over the keys to Ambulance #2. This one is going to Kherson, a city of 300,000 pre-war (100,00 now) right on the front line. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/daac576e-7ef1-4e94-ab8e-c200877197c5/IMG-20250516-WA0160.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Sarah-Jane and Jemima hand over the registration documents for the Popemobile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/3da2df6a-d5b6-4b71-9f51-d00308417bfa/IMG-20250516-WA0339.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Journalists interviewing one of the recipients https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ae86762d-20a4-4993-8d5b-dd1545894573/IMG-20250515-WA0038.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out At the Welcome Dinner in Lviv https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/8366d3d8-b2b6-4491-ad20-9e8889bdbc50/IMG-20250516-WA0550a.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Mayor Julia Pasternak (at right) and her colleague https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ee496397-d52c-4dc8-9be6-9160f12dc3e9/IMG-20250516-WA0666a.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Svetlana (at right), with Jemina who delivered the ambulance for the hospital where Svetlana works near the Russian border https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1d0fa1be-46fc-4ef0-8183-961fbb59adf1/20250514_224208a.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Lyudmila and me https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d49b8e8d-a3c3-4f20-a035-ff82dd4a81a7/IMG-20250516-WA0377.jpg Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out Men of Kherson. I can’t imagine what they live through every day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/371b1990-3d35-48cc-9d20-075c434a9029/The+Welcome+Dinner.JPG Ukraine at War - To Ukraine in an Ambulance Convoy - Make it stand out More images from the Welcome Dinner https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/home daily 1.0 2026-03-07 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1682355497029-P9F08HHGXJ3A8JEGMW4R/P1144905.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/d55692d1-fbd0-48dd-9b7e-b1bd6c5dc1da/DSC01641.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/719f62fc-e871-4827-b7fc-c9b19b88f42b/P1101025.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/70b8328e-2118-4247-ae4b-0bc7625266f9/Slide1.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e87ae812-bceb-44fc-9c01-e13063a7121c/Slide1.JPG 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old-growth jungle amongst the hill tribes Villagers invited us into their home for Lao Lao rice wine whisky https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e4ba0924-87f2-4c8e-8eda-9ceafdf13046/Northern+Laos+10+-+trekking.JPG Northern Laos - Luang Namtha for unforgettable trekking in old-growth jungle amongst the hill tribes With our guide in Nam Ha NPA (National Protected Area). Nam Ha is a very rare NPA that seems to actually be protected. There is no better place to trek in Laos. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/0da8d5f5-8325-435e-af02-2977145f9583/Northern+Laos+12+-+trekking.JPG Northern Laos - Luang Namtha for unforgettable trekking in old-growth jungle amongst the hill tribes In some villages you’ll get a performance of traditional dance, https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/37d8f987-e97e-4c30-91d7-334221662e1e/Northern+Laos+13+-+trekking.JPG Northern Laos - Luang Namtha for unforgettable trekking in old-growth jungle amongst the hill tribes and often you’ll be invited to join in https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ffb19d4e-4abe-490e-b9a0-da999c121347/Northern+Laos+7+-+trekking.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a8afdecf-898c-4609-a083-fe6fed58d8ad/Northern+Laos+8+-+trekking.JPG https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/northern-laos/luang-prabang-motorcycle-loop monthly 0.5 2025-11-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/44b19e38-87a5-46e2-bcf9-d54e647ab478/Luang+Prabang+loop.jpg https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/northern-laos/gibbon-experience-and-mekong-slow-boat monthly 0.5 2026-03-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/e8b79288-1f67-41be-a1c3-e9f5f7edb128/P1122942.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5541e16a-42ff-497f-8948-fc9d549ea218/P1122640.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/a1a5eca6-5d2b-40b4-b1cb-5be19457267f/P1122610.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/7efb020e-312d-4154-bcc9-9189bba24feb/Northern+Laos+6+-+Gibbon+1.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ed97d19a-5f18-445f-b273-a1f70fcb7b5f/P1122667.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/5f7d744a-1a30-4363-aa01-b8312124d453/P1122721.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/24cfa7fb-8ac5-43d9-b1c7-8f482ec08b05/P1123038.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9c20411c-30c0-4b2d-bd63-73a6a40b1065/462575399_2599156190281572_4494496281111761848_n.jpg https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/northern-laos/nong-khiaw-and-muang-ngoi monthly 0.5 2026-02-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/cf3e8097-aba0-4ccf-b964-a89901b6f0b1/Northern+Laos+1+-+Nong+Khiaw.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/37622465-727d-4839-8699-b38987e22b02/P1144503+cropped.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9c8d1583-9d0a-4c4e-8bbd-fe8dbe2bca34/Northern+Laos+3.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/580915d3-94de-4b2d-aec0-d3517b68f695/Northern+Laos+4+REPLACEMENT.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ce817c4d-009a-4b20-afb6-1c1e5a796456/P1144598.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/ad1e9ca4-236c-4bf1-a1bc-d853bfe610cd/Muang+Khua+boat+schedule.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/9e5ed279-4734-4bd4-b5d3-834b5e8879ab/Muang+Khua+bus+schedule.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/b9d860fd-b19b-4f3d-9fd0-ed86b19ae11c/Northern+Laos+5+-+Luang+Namtha.JPG https://www.lorenswanderlust.net/northern-laos/getting-there monthly 0.5 2025-11-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/644127ecf7b76c1b85693f67/1682952939596-UVDV67DGWEEJGE4CD48R/Northern+Laos+-+map.jpg