Starting point: Pakse

The best hostels in Pakse are Sanga Hostel and 1918 Hostel. Sanga usually sells out, so book in advance. Across the street from Sanga is the Pakse Hotel and Restaurant -- the restaurant up on the roof is quite good, and reasonably priced. It's a great place to watch the sunset. The only tourist site in Pakse is the Buddha statue across the river, which is also a good place to see the sunset.

If you want to see the loop but you don’t want to ride a motorbike, you need to hire a private car and driver. This will be expensive, so get price quotes from several drivers. Resist the urge to save money by zipping through everything too quickly — in that case you’re better off just downloading pictures from the internet.

 Rent your motorbike from Miss Noy motorbike rental in Pakse if possible. It’s run by a Frenchman named Yves and his Lao wife. Every night at 18:00 (whether you are renting from him or not), Yves gives an excellent free briefing in English and French about the Loop: what you can see, where to stay, etc. Go in the morning to reserve your motorbike for the next day, because by the time of the 18:00 briefing, all their bikes will be reserved for the next day. Whether you rent here or not, even if you will travel by car, GO to the briefing. It is very informative, and also a great place to meet other people to travel with.

What you see on the Loop: Several beautiful waterfalls (delightful for swimming on a hot day), and two coffee plantations (one of them is in a tribal village with very unusual customs, which you will learn about on the tour). The scenery on the Bolaven Loop is rolling hills and agricultural valleys -- a lot like Cambodia, not like most of Laos

You can either do the Short Loop (minimum 2 days, but you really need at least 3 and I enjoyed doing it in 4) or the Long Loop (minimum 3 days, but you really want 4 or 5). The Long Loop includes many more kilometres, and one additional set of waterfalls. All other waterfalls, and both coffee plantations, are on both the Short Loop and the Long Loop. The only advice from Yves that I might disagree with is his opinion that the Long Loop is worth doing. Personally, I spent 4 full days doing the Short Loop at a really relaxed pace, and I loved that. Everyone I met who did the Long Loop said it wasn't worth the dangers or the extra kilometres.

The Long Loop requires driving two dangerous roads -- one is dangerous because of robberies, and one because the road itself is in very bad condition. If you do the Long Loop, don’t be stupid -- do the dangerous part in a group. And really try not to stop for ANY reason in the robbery-prone area. Most of Laos has an extremely low violent crime rate, and there is no reason to spend time in the few places where crime is a problem.

Bolaven Short Loop Itinerary - Day 1

Pick up your motorbike early. Ideally be underway by 08:30 AM. First step, buy fuel, because the tank on your rental bike will be empty. Yves will show you were to buy it. Head east out of town on Highway 13, Laos’ main national highway from north to south. This road is very crowded and your first 6 kilometres (on this road) are crowded and dangerous. Look in your mirror constantly and drive defensively.

On the outskirts of Pakse, the road will fork. The main highway (highway 13) will turn south. You will bear left to keep going east, on highway 16E. It will still be busy with many trucks, but not as bad as before. You will ride this for about 20 kilometres to Highway 20. The turnoff is not well marked, but it will be a big “T” junction with dozens of kiosks selling fruit, water, chocolate, etc. etc. As soon as you turn left (north) onto highway 20, the traffic will get very light and easy to drive.

Your first stop will be about 40 kilometres along highway 20 — Mr Vieng’s Coffee Homestay. Mr Vieng does a great tour of his multi-crop plantation (see photo above) and you can get an excellent cup of coffee here. If you’ve timed it right, you’ll be here as the mid-day heat is building, and his shaded dining area will feel very relaxing. If you are spending at least 3 days on the loop, I would definitely make a 2-hour stop here, and plan to overnight in Tat Lo. But if you’re rushing through the entire Short Loop in 2 days and 1 night , then skip Mr Vieng’s entirely, do just a quick 2-hour stop at Tat Lo, and overnight at Captain Hook’s (see below).

Continuing north on highway 20 another 25 kilometers or so will bring you to Tat Lo village and waterfalls (see photo above). Your first accomodation option (1-2 km before Tat Lo village) is Fandee Island - I tried to stay there but it was booked up. It looked wonderful. Or continue another 1-2 km to Tat Lo Village: as you cross a bridge over the river on highway 20, you’ll see Tat Hang (the biggest waterfall) to your right. Keep going straight (i.e. away from the falls) for a very short distance and take the first right turn — that goes into Tat Lo village and another right turn takes you to Tat Hang; the smaller Tat Lo and Tat Soung waterfalls are just upstream behind Tat Hang. You will find plenty of guesthouses there, very few of them listed on the internet — just see a few and choose one. I stayed at the delightful Sailomen Guesthouse on the riverside, in an upper-floor room with a balcony looking directly onto Tat Hang. You should pay around $6 per night for a basic but comfortable private room with private shower, which is the usual price everywhere in Laos except the big cities.

Most people only spend one night in Tat Lo, but I spent two. During my full day there, I spent a wonderful cool morning hiking and motorbiking along the many smaller waterfalls behind Tat Lo, and then the hot afternoon swimming in the falls. On both nights I met many fun fellow travellers to dine and drink with. It was one of my best days in Laos. For more info on spending a day or more at Tat Lo, see this great website.

Bolaven Short Loop Itinerary - Days 2-3

Leaving Tat Lo, head north again on Highway 20 for 5 km to the village of Beng. Leave Highway 20 there, turning right (southeast) towards the town and monastery of Thateng - this road is well paved, but has no highway number. 5 or 6 km after making that turn (so only about 10 km after leavingTat Lo) you’ll see a dirt-road turnoff to Captain Hook’s Coffee Plantation and Homestay in the Katu tribal village of Ban Kok Phung Tai. The village’s main street is a wide but unpaved and muddy downward-sloping track. Most people who are spending 3 days on the Short Loop spend their second night here. Anyone doing the loop in just 2 days should spend their only night here. Although the plantation tour will have some overlap with Mr. Vieng’s, a lot of what you’re here for is the tribal village experience. The Katu tribe are animist, not Buddhist. Some of their traditions will thoroughly shock you, but it is a learning experience and one of the easiest ways to do a tribal homestay. Even if you’re not overnighting here, you should plan to spend at least 3-4 hours. This is one of the most memorable stops on the loop. The sunset walk down to the fishing pond (where you can help cast the nets to catch dinner, as you see in the photo below) is delightful. If Captain Hook’s is full, there is at least one other guesthouse in the village.